A SALUTE TO THREE GREAT DESIGNERS OF THE TWENTIETH CENTURY


I wanted to share with you those big three designers who influenced my own creating over the past few seasons.  Their imprint is on just about everything we see in the clothing arts.  Here it is, my own version of each designer . . . .

Art Meets Fashion
ROCHELLE
Jewelry by Studiolo
CHRISTIAN DIOR
Christian Dior revolutionized fashion in 1947 with his “New Look”, a 180 turn out of the gray days of fashion following WWII.  Once restrictions lifted on fabric post war, Dior had the freedom to introduce the hourglass silhouette, showing off a cinched waist atop skirts flowing in yards of silks and layers of crinoline. Recently this defined  waist has made a come back and brides are loving it.

SALUTE TO COCO CHANEL 
COCO CHANEL

The great Mademoiselle Chanel spanned several eras of changing fashion. Her most notable signatures are close fitting cloche style hats, halters, separates, jerseys and strands of many different pearl necklaces all worn at once. Until her retirement in 1939, she was the probably the world's most influential designer. She made a comeback in the 1950s ushering in her most enduring contribution to fashion, The Chanel suit still popular today.
I see the Chanel bride of today much like Mademoiselle herself. Casual and classy, sophisticated and quirky. Above all stylish. The bride above is in separates: a Chantilly lace halter paired up with a long shantung skirt with a sweep train. All her accessories are inspired by Chanel.


Balenciaga Inspired
Photos by John Truong and Stuart Lirette

CHRISTOBAL BALENCIAGA

Balenciaga was one of a handful of couturiers who could actually design, cut, and sew his own designs. A designer's designer, his minimalist creations  were so well crafted they resembled sculptures and were considered the optimal of haute couture circa 1950s and 1960s. Balenciaga would have stayed in Madrid designing for the Spanish aristocracy but the Spanish Civil War forced him to Paris where post war he did some of his most innovative work (see what hanging with a bunch of Paris designers can inspire?).

All gowns and headpeices available though Amy-Jo Tatum 

HEADLINES

How gorgeous are these?  British milliner Jane Taylor creates fascinators, hats and headpieces to die for.  In her London studio you'll find everything from vintage-inspired to the theatrical.  Plumes, netting, beads and other gems are found by Jane and woven into all the imaginative chic you see here.  You'll find  her work in Vogue, Elle, and Harpers and of course the bridal mags like Brides UK and Cosmopolitan Brides.  Check out her truly visual feast of a site  Jane Taylor Millinery









Photos courtesy Brides UK

FALL

Thankful for You
I see the last of November as the perfect break in the holidays for a late fall wedding.  All these deep amber, ochre and aubergine touches say we're just teetering on the brink of winter.  Check out the ivy laced in with the roses . . . the fruits and berries.  Many thanks to Shana over at SMP Style Circle.  I'm forever lifting her beautiful inspiration boards off the site to share with you.  And for a real treat in bridal potpourri check out her blog, Bauble and Bubbles.

WINTER BEECHES

Winter Beeches
It's officially winter!  At least here in Northern California where the temps have been dropping below freezing at night.  To celebrate the coming of warm and cozy, please enjoy this series of images that the talented Sarah Ehman over at SMP Style Circle whipped up for us.  Want even more inspiration?  You have to see her blog oomphasis, all about mail enhancement (ha, ha!) and other paperlicious goods . . .

WILLS AND KATE SET THE DATE

Now that it's official, Kate and Wills are tying the knot in the one-thousand year old  Westminster Abbey come April 29, the burning question is, "What will Kate wear?  We can speculate till spring and only one thing will be certain between now and then: Kate will choose a British designer.  I thought this the perfect opportunity to launch a series focusing on the innovative talents of British bridal designers.  First of all, let me say, along with the Dutch, England turns out the most talented bridal designers in the world.  The British can be a bit bi-polar when it comes to fashion though.  Rooted deep is a loyal tradition for adhering to proper dress and protocol.   Despite this, the fashion rebellion and/or avant garde factor is usually going full tilt as well.  Wasn't it cutting edge sixties icon Mary Quant who introduced the mini skirt?  Soon after a plethora of revolutionary mod designs streamed off Carnaby Street and changed the not only the way we dressed forever--but how we lived.  Mix these two extremes--traditional and radical and you're in for some great  if not juxtaposed style sensations . . .
MY PERSONAL FAVS

There's something very romantic about British bridal fashion.  They seem to have the waif/Goth/fairy-tale image all figured out . . . frothy head pieces, gossamer fabrics, florals everywhere.  This is just a sampling of a few of my my favs in the industry . . .

Charlotte Balbier

Charlotte's gowns have either that rose or yellow hue about them including all those gorgeous accessories that go with the look. Always, always so incrdibly feminine . . .

Sassi Holford

One of the reasons I love Sassi's creations other than they are works of art in lace is that she designs and has all her gowns made by hand in her studio. Also I hear she's been in the business almost thirty years and is self taught. She sounds a lot like me.   Sassi’s gowns are known mostly for cut, fit and her incredible use of just the right fabric.

Don't these designs reflect an incredible storybook quality . . .  with a real bit of edge?  Based in her design studio and store in Congleton, Cheshire, Sharon recently paired up with Rosie Panasar, a pioneer in the Asian wedding industry. The bridal wear Sharon and Rosie turn out now is a tour de fore of innovation as well as cut. The imagination and execution of their designs make them true style setters.
I've been following this designer for many years and always marvel that she can take romantisim in so many different directions.  A top notch corset maker, Terry works this skill into
making gorgeous costume-inspired wedding gowns as well.  Her site has a beautiful gifts section and is truly an experience you won't want to miss.

TOP BRITISH DESIGNERS

Caroline Castigliano

Caroline is a master of combining fabrics and layering --underneath as well as outer fabrics
so that they flow and move beautifully.  She also sits down with her clients before any gowns are even looked at and spends about 15 minutes getting to know all about them. 

Jasper Conran

I think of Jasper Conran as a pruist when it comes to style.  A fav designer of the Diana Generation Royals, Jasper designed Lardy Sarah Armstrong-Jones wedding gown  Niece of the Queen, her 1994 wedding gown was simple and elegant.  In 1982 Vogue called Jasper Conran a ‘British superlative’. At only 26 he won the British Designer of the Year Award. Here's what Mary Quant had to say about Conran, 'He makes clothes women want to wear’.


Jasper Conran

Jenny originally trained as a textile designer.The shapes of Packham's dresses may be basic and simple but the construction is more detailed and could be compared to the Dioresque designs of the  1950s, big on intricately placed seams, linings and inner-linings as well as boning and shaping materials. Her full skirts are made with layers of stiff netting and crin..  Best known for accentuating the female form

Art of Being by Elizabeth Emanuel

Elizabeth was Princess Diana's wedding gown designer. The day Diana emerged from her carriage swathed in tulle and taffeta, her storybook gown opened up so many new possibilities. Suddenly bridal designers and manufacturers could innovate and even break a few rules. Overnight Diana, with the help of the husband and wife team known as the Emanuels, eclipsed the granny gown and cookie cutter bridal uniforms of the time.   Fast forward almost thirty years and Elizabeth Emanuel is still producing gowns reflecting that little bit of Belle Epoch, a little bit Boho . . .

Art of Being by Elizabeth Emanuel

Actually Phillipa Lepley is the front runner in the, Who Will Design Kate's Dress Competition?  Known for her sweet and classic gowns, imagine Grace Kelly (of whom Kate resembles)  in one of these gems. 

Phillipa Lepley


Phillipa Lepley


Stay tuned here to find out more about the hottest British designers.  I'll be covering just about everything British and bridal all through the new year . . .

LET'S GIVE THANKS

Let's Give Thanks

Happy Thanksgiving and thanks to Sassy Bride on a Mission over at SMP Style Circle for putting together such an elegant set of inspirations perfect for this holiday.

WINTER WONDERLAND


A little cold clime inspiration here to get everyone thinking about winter weddings, especially those with a Christmas/Winter Wonderland/Snow  theme . . .

Above: Tulle dress, matching tulle shrug with hidden roses, David Fielden at Teokath. Feathers (worn as a headpiece), VV Rouleaux. Lace gloves, Cornelia James
Silk dress with silk-feather coat,  Jesus Peiro. Velvet peony Alice band,  Sophiei





Taffeta dress with Chantilly-lace detail,  Ritva Westenius London.

 Beaded silk-chiffon dress,  Manuel Mota at Pronovias. Faux-fur shrug,  LK Bennett


Tulle gown with satin and Swarovski-crystal waistband,  Charlotte Balbier. Cashmere cardigan,  Pure Collection. Wire-edged ribbon (worn as a sash),  VV Rouleaux. Cashmere scarf with Swarovski-crystal detail,  William Sharp. Felt hat.

WINTERIZING


Winter Wonderland weddings call for warmth.  Go ahead and wear that strapless gown but get some accessories like faux fur, fur lined boots and a muff for staying warm between destinations.  Here are a few warm and cozy gems worth checking out . . .



Cashmere scarf with pom-poms by Sassi Holford White fur-trimmed boots by Salvatore Ferragamo

MORE FALL

Fall
Let's mix up the pallette a bit.  Here's a touch of fall for all you fans of purple and aubergine.  Yes, a touch of orange and berry red to brighten things up.  A big thank you to Solera over at SMP STyle Circle for sharing . . . .

FALL IN LOVE

Fall in Love
This board reminds me of the wealth of lovely scenes out there this time of year.  With visual treats abundant, we have so much to be thankful for this week.  We have Misselle over at SMP Style Circle to congratulate for this medely of inspirations . . ..

FRIDAY INSPIRATION


O, never say that I was false of heart,
Though absence seemed my flame to qualify.
As easy might I from my self depart
As from my soul which in thy breast doth lie.
That is my home of love; if I have ranged,
Like him that travels I return again,
Just to the time, not with the time exchanged,
So that myself bring water for my stain.
Never believe though in my nature reigned
All frailties that besiege all kinds of blood,
That it could so preposterously be stained
To leave for nothing all thy sum of good;
For nothing this wide universe I call
Save thou, my rose, in it thou art my all .

 --William Shakespeare-- Sonnet #109

THE WINTER WEDDING GOWN



Try to find a bridal salon that stocks winter wedding gowns. Even on the East Coast and cold belt states you'll be hard pressed to find even a sample to try on . . . Ideally come July, you'd think salons would have at least a few samples in in anticipation of winter  Since most brides marry through the spring and summer months, long-sleeved gowns in fabrics like heavy satin and brocade are hard to browse in the salon.. European designers and browsing online offer the best inspiration points . I found the Dutch and British designers best for offering the ultimate in winter chic via fur, hats, wool scarfs. Stars like Angelina Colorusso have not only long sleeved gowns but offer a whole winter look.