MOVIE AND TV INSPIRED . . .

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Lovin' those 1950-60s styles? Well tune on in here.  Movies and TV inspire us because there's actually some drama going on behind all that lace and taffeta.  Paired up with great sets and styling, what bride to be wouldn't covet costume designer Janie Bryant's magnificent styling here?  This is actually Janie's mom's wedding dress adapted for actress Elizabeth Rice who plays Roger Sterling's daughter on Madmen. The plot thickened a couple seasons back when Margaret's wedding fell on the day after JFK's assassination.  Check out the topping here. I've been trying to figure out a way to do up a head piece like this for years.  Thanks Janie.

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What woman doesn't want to march down the aisle solo and spotlit on her wedding day?  I always thought double weddings were a wee bit unrealistic unless there was a war on and you had to double up with someone else for your nups because any second you could be blown to bits.  In this glitzy movie, Gentlemen Prefer Blondes, nothing is realistic.  In fact the plot gets flimsier as the costumes and choreography only get better.  Marilyn Monroe and Jane Russell here are dressed to the nines, as they march down the aisle in unison singing, 'We're Just Two Little Girls From Little Rock'. Watching this technocolor flick is worth the wait to the end just to glimpse these lace frocks with nipped waists, so charachteristic of their day . . .

THE SHIRT DRESS

Michi Callica

Today we're saluting the shirt dress. I haven't seen too many of these since the 1980s.  Remember Kathleen Turner in Body Heat?  She wore the white one that became iconic.  Cybil Shepard in Taxi Driver wore a memorable version as well (Also white).  The shirtwaist is actually a more relaxed version of the hourglass, a tailored look concentrating as much on the bodice detailing as the skirt. Typically shirtwaists have long shirt-like or billowing sleeves and full gathered skirt. The above version is spot on with the Mad Men trends, with 3/4 length sleeves and accented waistline.  Shirtwaists look hot in lightweight fabrics like organza, chiffon and crepe, as well as medium weights like linen. The above version is by Michi Callica and could go be adapted to any style wedding from a garden reception to an elegant gala wedding at the Plaza.

JUST LISTED ON ETSY

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 Defining looks for 2011 include long veils paired up with large, voluminous gowns as well as the slimmer silhouettes seen here.  These were just listed on Etsy.  Above and below are both cathedral veils.  The above veil is a double layer ivory tulle edged in satin ribbon.  Below, a white single layer tulle dappled in Chantilly lace.  You can see more images of both on Amy-Jo Tatum Bridal on Etsy . . .

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White tulle double layer waltz-style veil edged both layers in satin ribbon. See more images . . .

Makeup by Necia Whitmore

                                                              Hair by Kao Vey Saephanh

INSIDE STORIES . . .

PNINA TORNAI

The thing that makes a wedding gown so special is attention to detail inside as well as out. The Pnina Tornai gown above could pass for a piece of soft sculpture. A wedding gown well made is indeed a work of art. While a bodice and skirt may look pretty straight-forward from the outside, there's a complex life of inner linings, facings, crinolines, slips and shaping materials we never see but sense by the way the gown holds it’s shape. For instance, the bodice on a typical wedding gown needs an underling to give it that sculpted form in addition to becoming a strong foundation for lace, trim or embroidery. Also, an underlining can hide casements within the bodice for boning, a material used to hold that strapless bodice up. Realize most bodices whether draped or closely fitted to your body, frequently have some kind of foundation of reinforcement beneath. Contemporary bones are available in two forms- flat steel boning and spiral steel boning. Spiral is flat but thicker than flat boning because of the tips required on the ends. Flat boning bends in only one direction, while spiral steel boning bends easily in two directions. Spiral steel boning may be used on curved channeling or in light support areas. Both varieties are rigid lengthwise. Today, manufacturers use nylon or Rigiline bones. Steel is still optimal for 'real deal' corsetry and couture bodices. Nylon boning doesn't have the strength to hold up bodices the same way steel does. Nylon also is coarse and wrecks fabric over time. It is however, inexpensive so manufacturers do use it frequently.

Lela Rose

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Above diagram shows the inside workings of a strapless bodice with a dropped waist. Lines shown designate boning points

The skirt is where the most critical movement takes place. It goes into motion once you put one foot in front of the other and make your way down the aisle. And because the skirt is an action piece, it has a certain ‘living quality’ once you start moving around in it. For the gown to to look and move properly the right linings and under structure are necessary.























Amalia Carrera
Your gown won't look finished off without proper lining and/or a slip. For snug sheath and evening gown silhouettes an appropriate lining will suffice. Anything beyond an A-line requires a slip that provides structure. So what is structure? The ball gown above is shaped with a very wide and voluminous slip similar to the photo beside it. Whether you're going for an A-line, princess or full bouffant shape, your slip should be worn separately from your gown (read: yes, as in a whole separate piece). Why? You don't want to add bulk to the waistline. Wedding gowns have enough heavy duty handiwork going on inside, why add more? I know most gowns come with built-ins, but do ask your salon when placing the order to have the designer send your slip as a separate component from the gown.
Right: A-line gown Casablanca Bridal
Below: A-line slip Sweetheart slips


Trains and bustles have allot going on inside as well. Most built in trains double as bustles and are filled inside with layered crinoline or organdy to give shape. Ever wonder how the back extension of a gown glides so beautifully? The secret is horsehair. If you're looking at one of the more voluminous gowns, notice whether or not the skirt (read: skirt, not the under slip) seems to have a structure that can stand on it’s own. It should. This has to do with how it is lined and hemmed. When you pick up the skirt—including the train—and look closely at the hemline, you’re likely to find a 3-6” wide band of horsehair. That’s the clear and meshy edging at the hemline that gives the bottom of the dress some flex as well as firmness. Notice how the skirt and train extension seem to hold that precision shape. It’s the horsehair that keeps the bottom of the skirt in shape and gliding when you move instead of swishing side to side (you’ll find this out once you try on the gown). Typically horsehair is sewn on the inside of the hem. Most designers are bringing the skirt lining over the horsehair edging completely, leaving as clean a finish inside as out.

Paloma Blanco
The bottom of this hem and train lays perfectly flat and will stay even once you begin walking. The secret is a hem reinforced with horsehair
Keep in mind you’ll be walking over surfaces of stones and uneven pavements that might trip you up or get caught up in the horsehair. With clean finishing work inside, when you lift your skirt to walk up stairs, the horsehair stays hidden and show your gown to be as beautifully finished inside as out.

THE WORLD OF COTTON

Amy-Jo Tatum Bridal Couture/Photo by Stephanie Williams

Thinking of spring perchance?  Since cotton is the ultimate in laid-back casual, we rarely think of it in terms of bridal wear. Think again. Especially about organdy and swiss cotton. These are some of the finest fabrics in the world and not just for kids dresses anymore. First-rate cottons like these have always been a stylish option for summer brides and garden weddings. One of the most beautiful gowns I ever designed was a dotted swiss ball gown with an asymmetrical neckline. Savvy and confident, my client amped her ‘look good’ factor by adding a dimity sash. Since not every bride wants the formality of silk on her wedding day, some designers are getting this message, offering at least one cotton option in their spring/summer collection. Bravo! Finally!

White cotton eyelet gown with satin ribbon sash, $1,975, by The Cotton Bride by Chris Kole who offers an entire collection of cotton dresses in various weaves thecottonbride.com.

COTTON WEAVES

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Eyelet-light to medium weight cotton with cutout patterns of embroidery along the border. Pictured above, it is a classic summer time favorite for informal brides. Makes up into pretty long or short hourglasses, sundresses, chemises, shifts, shells, A-lines. Perfect in colors for attendants.

Dotted Swiss-Lightweight to sheer cotton. Made up of a lappet or swivel weave with woven dots. Used for shirtwaists, A-lines, shifts, chemises and hourglasses. Great in colors for outfitting the wedding party.  The image below is actually from the Michelle Roth collection and is silk organza.  Though dotted swiss is not difficult to find as yardage, bridal gowns and dresses in this particular weave are right now.

Michelle Roth

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Organdy-Pictured above, organdy is a light, plain weave of cotton or poly that is transparent and permanently stiffened. Sometimes used for jacket interfacing and making lightweight hats. Lends itself well to the once popular daytime formal concept of afternoon garden receptions —the kind a Katherine Hepburn character would have attended. Crisp and pure, it makes up into lovely structured hourglass silhouettes and A-lines.

Salvage Life

Voile-The above dress is voile which means ‘veil’ in French so you get the idea of how light it is. Sheer, plain weave of cotton or polyester. Dubbed ‘poor man’s chiffon’ because of its less formal appearance than its counterpart, silk chiffon. It is however, in some cases, more expensive than silk chiffon for the reason it’s not as redily available as silk chiffon that you find everywhere.

YOU BLUE ME AWAY

Remember Carrie Bradshaw's Manolos?  The ones she forgot and went back for that changed her fate all together?  These blue icons do keep turning up out there in the fashion arena almost like a metaphor, reminding us, things aren't always as concrete as we see them.  Add some blue dash to the formula via accessories, flowers and edibles and you've created more magic.  Thank you to Shana over at SMP Style Circleonce again.  She has a real knack for putting together colorful inspirations.  You'll find more lovely stuff on her blog, Baubles and Bubbles.

SOMETHING NEW

Let's take a sneek peek at some inspirations for spring that season of which, believe it or not is closer than you think.  From the beautifully wrapped posies to silk white wedding gown, we have Kathryn over at SMP Style Circle for to thank for this wonderful medley of ideas . . .